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泰国曼谷桂河芭提雅6日游[1月19-24日] 19日：福州-香港-曼谷。 20日：曼谷大皇宫、行宫、议政大厦、桂河大桥、桂河夜游。 请点击：https//bbs.8264.com/thread-1609594-3-1.html 21日：珠宝馆、皮革馆、蜡像馆、九世佛塔、龙头大佛、芭提雅歌舞、大象表演、海滨夜景。 请点击：https//bbs.8264.com/thread-1609594-12-1.html 22日：芭提雅登高望洋、海上快艇、金沙岛水中漫步、金三角模拟秀、骑大象、钓鳄鱼、水上市场、东方公主号人妖秀、芭提雅旅游街夜景。 请点击： https//bbs.8264.com/thread-1609594-19-1.html 23日： 原石馆、四面佛、燕窝馆 、毒蛇馆、湄南河游轮、kingpower免税店、人妖歌舞。 请点击：https//bbs.8264.com/thread-1609594-31-1.html 24日：曼谷机场香港机场。 请点击：https//bbs.8264.com/thread-1609594-39-1.html 19日：福州--香港--曼谷。 空客A330，载客数可达400余。港岛。 香港转机。香港起飞。还是空客A330.曼谷机场。到达住宿地。 20日： 曼谷大皇宫、行宫、议政大厦、桂河大桥、桂河夜游。旅馆小环境。住地附近小景。([]
最新章节： 第521章 起风了 （ 2024-06-03 21:29:32）
更新时间： 2024-06-03 19:22:39
- 第1章 宠爱
- 第2章 地下城与勇士
- 第3章 本田
- 第4章 世界最大花朵
- 第5章 最佳女婿
- 第6章 特朗普再警告伊朗
- 第7章 光年之外王者荣耀
- 第8章 X1解散
- 第9章 超级飞侠
- 第10章 哈德森
- 第11章 喜羊羊与灰太狼
- 第12章 十宗罪
- 第13章 大众
- 第14章 存钱存了一半睡着
- 第15章 中学禁止学生网购美军航母逼近伊朗
- 第16章 龙之谷
- 第17章 鱼王拍近2亿日元
- 第18章 刺客伍六七
- 第19章 天生一对天涯明月刀
- 第20章 光年之外王者荣耀
- 点击查看 中间隐藏的 42444 章节
- 第549章 星球大战：天行者崛起
- 第550章 跑跑卡丁车
- 第551章 天龙八部
- 第552章 犯罪现场庆余年
- 第553章 郑爽比尔盖茨客串美剧
- 第554章 寒门崛起
- 第555章 猪猪侠
- 第556章 世界最大花朵
- 第557章 伊朗外长被美国拒签
- 第558章 遮天4
- 第559章 苏州十全街塌陷
- 第560章 名侦探柯南庆余年
- 第561章 这样唱好美
- 第562章 喜羊羊与灰太狼
- 第563章 纽约宣布高度戒备
- 第564章 23岁空姐坠楼失忆首颗5G卫星出厂
- 第565章 勇士逆转太阳
- 第566章 南方温暖历史罕见
- 第567章 活塞VS湖人
- 第568章 奇葩说6
舌尖对什么味道最敏感
赖雅茹Northern Wilderness, Solo Traverse of the Great Chang TangMr YANG Liusong, a Chinese who just finished the first solo traverse over Chang Tang by cycling from west to east in recorded human history, shared his stunning Expedition with all of us through the forum 8264 https//bbs.8264.com/thread-512349-1-1.html . In order to share his legendary journey with those who cannot read Chinese, I translate his story to English here, which has been approved by Mr YANG Liusong. Hope you guys enjoy it.为了让杨同学的传奇能让全世界的驴友分享，俺决定把杨同学的帖子翻译成英文。为了避免麻烦，俺先来个免责声明：1。杨同学不认识俺，也没有授权俺，如果他说不要翻译了那俺就随时终止；2。俺没有商业目的，译版版权归杨同学，俺啥也不要，也不承担法律责任；3。没有杨同学授权，不敢擅自发在国外网站，发在原帖处，荣誉归8264；4。俺英语水平有限，欢迎指正，欢迎转贴。 Northern Wilderness, Solo Traverse of the Great Chang TangBy Yang LiusongIt has been three months since I traversed the unpopulated region in the Great Chang Tang. There are many like-minded asking me about it. I now present this thread to briefly tell everybody about my journey.The starting point of this traverse was from the highest peak of the western part of the Tibetan plateau, Jieshan Daban, and the day was April 20, 2010.I was heading eastward passing Bungdag Co, Yanghu Co, Rola Co, and Kangzhagri Mountain, which crossed over the desolate region from west to east. The journey continued northward to enter the unpopulated area of Altun Mountains, through Hoh Xil Mountains, Kunlun Mountains, Whale lake, ..., finally met some people by the Aqqikkol Hu and then arrived in Huatugou by vehicle three days later and that day was July 5. It had been 77 days in total. I had been all alone 74 days after leaving Jieshan Daban until arriving inAqqikkol Hu, which was about 1400km and about four months.[The Great Chang Tang] In Tibetan, "Chang Tang"; means northern empty wilderness while narrowly, means unpopulated region in northern part of Tibet. However, it actually indiCATes all of the no man's land in northern. The great Chang Tang includes desolate places in Northern Tibet, Hoh Xil, Alun Mountains, and Kunlun Mountains, which are interconnected to form the unique and super empty wilderness in the world. Only because Hoh Xil is the most known name, most people just think this vast land is equivalent to Hoh Xil. In reality, Hoh Xil is only a small piece of the Great Chang Tang both administratively and geologically. The Great Chang Tang, the last land to chase your freedom and dream.The route that I traversed ForeplayI arrived in Tibet in the early March, a couple of troubles bothered me. The brand new plug got its positive and negative wrongly connected; the rivets of my rucksack eASIly got broken from now and again; and a multi-functional charger got damaged and so on. Riding my bike to Ngari for warming up of this journey, lost my rucksack but later got it back; lost my camera bag and got it back later again, and finally lost a big bicycle pannier in the street of Gyangze town under the eyes of police, including clothes, solar panel and so on.Without much choice, I returned to Lhasa to adjust all the stuff I would need in the wilderness. Then I begged some luck by going to Nyingchi to enjoy the blossoms of peach trees and to take a hot spring bath. I even had the privilege to enjoy time with ten girls in the hot spring. I felt my bad luck had all gone and then returned to Lhasa again to prepare going to Ngari. I did not expect that I was cheated on by some hustler and lost some money and delayed my schedule for a week. I had to find a car myself quickly to Nagri. However, I lost the tool for fast-parting my rear wheel on my way to Nagri, where was a remote area in Tibet and nowhere to buy the tool. Even if there was one in Lhasa it would take at least ten days for a special delivery service. I was lucky that my mate Duola asked a driver to bring the tool for me from Lhasa. I thought there should be no more nightmare like this but the nozzle of my brand new multi-fuel stove was broken. The next day I tried everywhere to weld them back together. The first three shops could not do the welding for copper. The fourth one said they could do it but could not guarantee a sUCCess. The engineer said it would be ten Chinese yuans if it was a success. I agreed. Just in seconds, my nozzle became crap in a flash of lightening. I was so upset. Again, Duola helped me by bringing her own MSR oil stove and Dingding's sleeping bag to Nagri. That was already April 16 and I did not have much time to waste. The following day I found a vehicle heading to Jieshan Daban.The sand storm over Yarlung Zangbo RiverA lonely peach tree blossoming in Yarlung Zangbo Grand CanyonNatural hot spring in wild, me singing and drinking (photo by a friend of mine) Day 1(April 20), 16km, Camping 5192mIt was a truck with a full load of iron wastes, arriving in Jieshan Daban at 6'o clock in the morning. It was still night and extremely cold and dark. Driver was not bothered to pop his head out of the driving cab. I climbed up on the top of the iron wastes, taking my bicycle down. In a hurry, I punched my old water bag. Fortunately I had another MSR water bag given by a friend of mine otherwise I would definitely fail without even starting my journey. For the first time for me to set up the brand new tent in strong, cold winds. It would be impossible to do so if the tent was not a whole piece. Extremely cold outside, about -15C, might be lower than that, I put my head into the sleeping bag but was nearly suffocated to death, honestly. The smell of Dingding's sleeping bag was, lol, so extraordinary. I woke up around 11 o'clock. There were still strong winds outside so that I had to use my bodyweight to keep the tent in place. At the time when I just started to cook and eat, four patrolling soldiers approached me. To their surprise someone, in this season, camped in Jieshan Daban. I was so nervous and afraid they were the people to block my journey because I was caught and deported from the desolate land last year. Luckily the four soldiers did not know my destination and were very kind to me. After they left, I immediately packed my stuff and pushed my bike into the depths of the unpopulated area just in case anything unexpected happened.The bike was very heavy due to the provisions and hard to control. There was even a quite small hill that I had to remove my bike panniers to get over it. This really struck me because this happened even the path was still the hardship one at the moment and I could not imagine what I would do once I entered the uncertain, endless wilderness. Until now I had not met anyone, even the nomadic pastoralists. I remembered there were quite a few of them roaming at the edge of the northern Tibetan plateau last year. All of these indicated it was not the good pasture season in such low temperature and strong winds. Around 16km there was a sheep cote, where I passed it last year, east of Lungmu Co. I was exhausted at this point so that I decided to camp in here and to rest my head. After arranging tent everything I went out to look for the wetland discovered by Duola and Liumeng last year. I was determined to find it.There were many hot springs in the wetland which were underground water with a constant temperature. The wetland therefore became an ideal habitat for some fishes and weeds under such harsh weather, which was the very unique land feature of terrain in this over 5200m highland.Perpetual snow in the valley blown to corn shape by strong windsThis wetland was discovered by Duola and Liumeng. The workers at a nearby mine did not know it and I too missed it last yearUnderground water with a constant temperature, an ideal habitat for some fishes and weeds under such icy weather 感谢大伙儿支持和加分，不一一回复了。特别感谢多啦，希望能有机会一起喝酒吃肉。 Day 2 (April 21), 0km, Camping5192mBlustering gale all night, up and down like ocean waves. The next day rather than continuing to travel, I stayed inside the sheep cote, hesitating and pondering over. Indeed, there were so many problems before this journey;I did not have sufficient physical preparation;the load had already reached its limitation; I still coughed a lot;the weather was so extreme and cold. All in all, I did not think this journey was well prepared and I did not have confidence in completing this journey mentally and physically. To do, or not to do, it was the question. Similarly I did not have confidence in my facilities, not knowing whether all of them would work functionally or not. The fact was one of the rivets got broken again and the front rack came loose. In the afternoon, I replaced all the rivets of the panniers with screws I had prepared before. This was an excellent job I had done which gave me no further troubles throughout my whole journey. I also re-adjusted the front rack. However I did not think it would definitely all right because I did not have a tool to do it. When the darkness descended,I made up my mind to continue my journey, which, of course, was not beyond any imagination. Orchid-like weedsSmall springs everywhere, clear and chillyA thin layer of ice covering the fresh spring water The sheep cote, it was the door under the sleeping bag, which was in the same place as last year, everything looked like yesterdayThe wetland at duskLungmu Co at dusk. You could hear the gigantic sound of wind if the picture had a sound Day 3 (April 22), 52.4km, Camping 5145mGot up in the morning, could not put everything into the bags. Without much choice I had to throw away three portions of tsampa, elbow pads, and crampons. Following the road of the lead-zinicmine I found the side path to enter the wilderness, which was on the riverbed and very hard to see. I missed this side path last year so that I had to take a short cut into the wilderness directly then. That was why I had taken extra care to find the side path. The following journey was to get over a big hill, which lay 5275m above sea level and was the highest point of my whole journey. Around 2 o'clock in the afternoon, I passed the side path leading to Orba Co and started a journey which was complete strange to me. I ate a piece of pilot breads, which was frozen like rocks so that I had to use my spade to crush it. At 6 o'clock in the evening, I had pushed plus rode my bicycle for about 32 km. I reckoned I should have been able to double this if I did no carry such heavy load. The wind became stronger and stronger. I opened the parasail kits and tested it. The result was far beyond what I expected. With the aid of the strong wind I was just like flying over the wilderness. After 8 o'clock in the evening, I started to observe the water Source and to get ready to camp. Map showed there were successive springs along the path and assembled to puddles. But I had overestimated the water source here in this land and in this season there were endless wilderness inside the valley, where I could not see a single drop of water. As it became darker and darker, I felt a little bit nervous which resulted in three spokes of the parasail broken and became a useless rubbish. Anyway, it helped me to move forward 20km more which benefited me a lot later on. When time approached 9.30 pm, it was almost completely dark. I had to lie my bike on the ground and went on to try to find water on the north side of the valley. This was a wide and flat sandy land, where I could not see any ditches there and further was complete darkness. I returned to get my GPS to look up the contours and found the south part of the valley was closer to a hill so I took the way. Finally I found a piece of ice in a ditch. I smashed about 20litre of ice. The ice was quite shallow scattered with sheep poo. On my way back, my eyes were hurt by strong winds, which got me a couple of days to recover. It was nearly 23 o'clock after I set up the tent. It also took about 40 mins to melt the ice. I was so tired and my appetite was completely spoiled. I then had a little bit of milk. I had never expected thing would go like this, it was so distressing. Streams along the path, ice everywhereThe river flew into Matou Hu, in whose north part there was a satellite lake, a wonderful ice-skating court It took 40mins to melt the ice in midnight Day 4 (April 23), 31km, Camping 5028mA cloudy day with gusts. From now and again, hails chased me from behind. Sunny spell. Heavy sandy land made me have to push my bike. At 3pm, I arrived at Luxing Hu, where there was a house made of clay. This was the last permanent building of my journey. Last year, Duola and Liumeng once lived in this house for three days without meeting anybody. It seemed it was the same but the truck parking in front of the house made me worry about. I went to the sheep cote first to check over, where there were only a few lambs following me everywhere I went later on. This made me feel warm in my heart. I observed farther places using my binoculars but could not see any people or sheeps. After making sure there were no people around I opened the locked door using a screwdriver. The living room was very clean. There were two boxes of beverages on the ground and a string of cured lamb legs hanging over in the interior room. A pot of water was on the top of the stove, lukewarm, which indicated the host must be not far away from his home. I filled up my water bag and left the house. I also put the screws back to the door in order not to leave any trace of my visiting. I then took a spanner from the toolbox of the truck, which gave me great help for the rest of the journey.I left the house as quickly as possible. After last year's experience, the nomadic pastoralists were the last people I wanted to meet. A few hundred meters away from the house, the vehicle traces were fading fast. Even downhill, I had to push rather than to ride because of the heavy loose sand. From the route point of view, only after Luxing Hu it was the real unpopulated land. After many days, I thought of the lamb legs from time to time. It was pity that I then had plenty of provisions and the bike was too heavy to carry anything more. Continue to melt the ice under the morning sunshine, all of the sheep poo had been removed carefullyCamping site, the little hill over there was the place where I got the ice last nightThe house by the Luxing Hu, empty, the last permanent building I saw throughout my journeyDay 5 (April 24), 19.8km, Camping 4951mSet off at 10.30 in the morning, the weather was similar to yesterday. Probably this road was the high plain or somewhere the wind passed so that it was so windy. The average wind speed was degree 6 but could reach degree 9 in the blick of an eye. The road was still full of sand and very heavy to walk on it. My eyes became worse under such harsh weather. About three o'clock in the afternoon, I saw something in my right, looked like antenna. I went closer to see what it was and found out it was an iron tower (the triangulation station). In 1970s, a joint team from Chinese three military regiments entered this area doing research. They have left a lot of triangulation stations and benchmarks, which I had the priviledge to see them today.At dusk, I approached to a spring by the Bungdag Co, which flew into the frozon lake. The sand and soil, brought by the strong wind, scattered on the surface of the ice all over the lake. There were so many cracks around the icey surface of the lake. I geussed it must be caused by the springs under the water rather than by melted ice. In the west of the Bungdag Co was the side path leading to Keriya Pass, where a SUV could reach directly. I had looked out any vehicle Tracks but failed. The cloudy sky started to snow. I set up the tent comfortably because I knew that I was safe having such a sweet spring beside me.Triangulation station erected by scientists from the joint research team on Chang Tang of three military regiments in 1971[size=+0]The gap between water and ice in Bungdag Co, I guessed there must be some springs under the lakeThe storm just above the ground, a chaotic darkness[size=+0]Icy Bungdag Co,one of the four biggest lakes in Northern Tibet, wild ducks flying over this vastness and lonenessSnowing at any time, should not happen so frequently like this in this seasonDay 6 (April 25), 4.3km, Camping 5002mWeathering landforms everywhere around this area. Spongy volcanic rocks could be found easily. I pushed my bike turning around a small hill, seeing a big river, the Yinshui He, flowing from Orba Co into Bungdag Co, which I had been to its upstream last year. It was also a passage for animal migration. The downstream of the river was extremely wide and broad. The thickess of the ice layer could reach one meter with the main stem in the middle course of the river, very deep. There were a few springs along the river, sweet and clear.I only went forward a little bit more than 4km but I had walked more than 20km for finding my way. It was not possible to cross the main stem, let alone the north bank of Bungdad Co. What I could only do was to try to find a shallow place to cross. But the southern area was a even larger piece of wetland and forced the road turn towards west. I spent a couple of hours but failed to find a good point to cross the river. In the afternoon, I decided to follow the edge of the wetland. When I reached the hill foot, the wetland finally disappeared. Around this area, there were clearly volcanic feature of terrain and I even found traces of pasturing and cairns made from volcanic rock.Here was the last pasturing trace I found throughout my journey, I guessed it was a summer pasture area. After this, there was no clear sign of human activities in this vast wilderness. I had been looking for my ways until it was dark. I made up my mind where to go TOMOrrow. The terrain here looked like Yardang landforms, as well as volcanic landforms The Yinshui He river from Orba CoSprings scattered all over the river bank, painted green by lovely algaeThe river was very deep. The mixture of green and amber colour showed the sand and mud carried by the melted iceThick layer of ice, sunken surface caused by strong gustsThe south course of the Yinshui He, countless small streams. To the right was the wetlandLooking for ways in the east, a trace of pasturing and the cairn made from spongy volcanic rocksMy camp, opposite to the hillDay 7 (April 26), 11km, Camping 5009mI moved forward to the direction I found yesterday, turning around the wetland and walking toward east. At 2pm, I was blocked by the zigzag Yinshui He again and I had no choice but to cross it. The river was about 700m wide, covered by ice which appeared very different. The hanging ice, the folding ice, the piling-up ice, the icy puddle, and the sleet were everywhere along the river bank. Having noticed all of these, I reckoned the river would be receding at dusk, which was why there were so many different shapes and forms of ice. I put my slipper on, going into the main stream of the river. I found there were at least three different courses of the river, the thickness of the surface ice varied and the river water reached above my knees. I sighed there would be no way back once I crossed this river. There are many ways in one's life too, you can only take it once and you will no long have the courage to repeat it.I pushed the bike crossing the river. Some of the ice was a bit soft, jamming the tyres so that I had to use my feet to break them first. Some of the ice was a bit thick but with half-melted underneath, sticking the the bike completely, some of the ice was half-water half-ice with a sandy riverbed, which was really hard to pass. I had to remove all of the panniers at the last stage of the crossing. I spent the whole four hours to cross the river, my legs got many bloody cuts. At 6pm, the surface ice was almost disappeared completely, the river level rapidly rising to a chaotic status. I thought if I hesitated a little bit at that time, I could not have the courage to cross this river under such circumstances. The river bank was unimaginably sandy and was quite steep. I had to unloaded the panniers again to reach the top of the bank. By the time of sunset, the weather became exceptionally good. The sunlight from the descending sun, the blue sky, the faint moon, .... I liked such a colorful and peaceful Chang Tang and very much enjoyed my camp and myself bathed in such beautiful colour.The ice like this was very thin and suspended, far away from the main stemHard surface with half-melted underneath, the soft sand at the botton was most scaryThe ice like this could easily jam the wheels, hard to get it outI had to unload the panniersChaotic water and terrible hails turned up in no timeThe Chang Tang at the moment liked it used to be,a mixture of cold and warm tones under the golden setting sun Day 8 (April 27), 14.6km, Camping 5112mLast night, I forgot to bring in the odometer, which was out of order due to the coldness in midnight. Since then I used GPS to check the mileage. The digital thermometer was no longer working. I had to use mercury thermometer to collect data. Night temperatures were basically between –15℃—–20℃ while the temperature inside my tent was about –10℃. The advantage of the integrated tent was that it limited the ventilation so to keep warm inside. However, it got clearly disadvantage of heavy condensation and dew. Every morning, there was plenty of frost inside the tent so that I had to put my hood on First Before fully getting dressed. The winds in Chang Tang finally became consistent with the pattern I had researched the other day no or very tiny wind in the morning, strong wind started after 2pm, and then at around 8pm its strength was reduced again. The accuracy of this prediction was about 80%.The road was very bad today. I walked whole afternoon in an ancient riverbed and it was so difficult that I had to use all of my strengths to move a small step forward and then to stop to breath, slower than a snail. After five hours' struggling, my eyes got wet when I saw the grassy river bank. Finally! The nightmare was over.Cold and clear morningHeavy morning condensation in the interior, a lot of frost to clearSuch dawning sunlight indicated a cloudy day ahead Day 9 (April 28), 18km, 5072mIn the morning I entered a range of sandy roads which were so terrible. The solar panel specially designed for GPS got short circuited. After checking it was found to be the diode got damaged. Luckily I got a replacement. Because the GPS was exclusively supplied by a solar panel so that it was no longer a problem for the power supplement of GPS. In a period of 70 days, I did replace the battery once, which saved me a lot of alkaline batteries. I did have another solar panel of 5.4 W which was used specifically for 7.5V Camera, DV and other digital facilities. Unlike water, I had never been short of power.At 7pm in the evening, I arrived at Pur Co. The surface of this lake was very odd the ice by the river bank rose and the river bank was broken, I reckoned that was due to the strong winds. The ice there was mingled with something yellow, could be the stain of alkali. There were many wild yaks on the other side of the lake. There could be two brown bears but I could not be for certain. On the east side of the lake, there was a peninsula leading to the centre of the lake. I camped just opposite to the peninsula. At night , I smashed the ice to get drinking water, which tasted alkali. For the first time I cooked the cereals, which was brought completely by accident. This was just because I found there was a little bit of extra space when I was in Nagri packing the stuff for this journey so that I bought two packs of cereals. It tasted disgusting, probably there was too much alkali in the water. I threw away half of it. Later I realised that probably I subconsciously felt that the provisions was so heavy. I would rather make it lighter at any cost.Dry all my stuff in the morning sun, a routine matterA faint dusk in Pur CoThe river bank pushed up by ice and opened like zipper by gustsThe pushed up surface of the iceThe place where I got my drinking water, a thin layer of ice behind the ablation corns The moment just before sun set, glittering Pur Co, nothing was the same差点儿没找到俺自己的帖子，原来变色了。多谢各位鼓励。 Day 10 (April 29), 16km, Camping 5141mIn the morning, I walked around the north bank of the Pur Co， where it were continuous ups and downs sprinkled with light yellow sprouts across the sparse grassland. The wild yaks clustered into small groups. All of a sudden, there was a group of five of them running towards me, blowing a huge cloud of dust with the power of thunderbolts,I believed that anyone who did not know the characters of the wild yaks must be frightened to death under such circumstances. The fact was the wild yaks in groups never injured people. Rushing to you just to show you its territory. When they approached people at certain distance, they would turn sharply and run away, and then stopped somewhere high to stare at you. You can not imagine that the wild yaks were very cautious animals compared with its almost one ton of weight. Their first reaction, when meeting people, was to raise their tails, the front hooves rubbing against the ground, the horns pointing forward, the eyes redden, and the long body hair shaking, all of which showed their determination to fight.This was the warning sign that you should retreat. However, you should realise that this was only a gesture that they were afraid of you and wanted to scare you away. The thing was that if you were not afraid of them and moved forward, they would run away in no time. There were only some mad yaks attacking people, which was really rare to happen. In Chang Tang, an experienced driver know that it is very dangerous to pass directly from two or three lonely wild yaks. They always tried to avoid confronting them directly. If this was not possible, they would lit a cigarette, smoking, to wait until the yaks walked away themselves. This was because the wild yaks really could attack vehicles, which was not completely rumors. I once asked them why I had not been attacked. They told me that because my bike was so small they would not be bothered to attack it. My own experience was that approaching a wild yak very slowly, do not look into its eyes, and ignored what it was doing. As long as it moved forward a little bit, just stop and give the yaks a little bit of time to think. Because if you forced the yak, it could be themost dangerous animal in the world and nothing could stop them killing. Even a gunshot could not kill it but only left a small hole in its skin. In the past, the nomads living near this land would use yaks' skin as chopping board which was very much endurable. At noon, I lost my balacLAVA, which was brand new and I had never used it once. I could not be bothered to go back tofind it. This resulted in that I had to have my fleece hat day and night in the rest of my journey, which did not provide fully protection from the sun in the plateau. But somehow I was all right, perhaps because my skin is similar to those of yaks, lol. At around half past one, I found a deserted Jeep, upside down. I felt it could be there for years and it could be the vehicle of someillegal HUNTERs. Nowadays, we have wildlife conservation reserves in Chang Tang and the animals here are well protected. However, some people kills the wild yaks to sell them as the domestic yak's meat. In general, it is worth 10,000 Chinese yuans for a single wild yak. Therefore many people take the risk to make money. They often enter the unpopulated areas to hunt and their activities can reach 200 km in diameter. This is why the wild yaks in the deep wilderness are less afraid of people than thoseat the boundaries of the Chang Tang region.There once happened that a wild yak mother revenged its baby's murder in the Altun mountains. Its horns pierced the killer's chest and held his body over its head for more than ten days, which was very touching.Around 3pm, I walked out of the Pur basin. The next point was Hong Shan Daban and then it was the Yueya Hu by the Toze Gangri. At this time I found a vehicle track from south to north. I checked over but could not find the way where they had gone. I took my map, GPS, and compass, climbing up a small hill to estimate the location of Hong Shan Daban. The mountain was very round and it was hard to find the mountain pass. After determining the location of the Daban, I moved straightforward. When I passed a messy grassland, I saw something that I was reluctant to see more than hundreds of wild yaks' head scattered all over, which was definitely the scene of the illegal hunting. After that it was a very long ancient river bed with soft sand slowly rising until the foot of the mountain.There are some spines on the surface of the tongues of wild yaks, which are used by nomads in this area as combs. They use them from their teens to the time when their hair becomes silver.The deserted Jeep, could be left by illegal hunters years agoThe slaughtered wild yaks with the wheel size heads. Some of the skulls were chopped into half. Why was that? Could be taken away for making combs?My camp at the foot of the Daban underthe lingering golden rays of the setting sun. Tomorrow's weather must be wonderful, I reckoned Day 11(April 30)， 20.4km, Camping 5120mThe surface of the road leading to Hong Shan Daban was very hard, most of them were small rocks, sort of gravels, plus a quite long downhill slope, I pushed my bike more than 20km for the first time after Luxing Hu. The mountain pass was quite flat, just like a broad ridge, it was 5256m above the sea level. Upon arriving at the pass, Toze Gangri of 6356m was in my sight clearly, very much round and there was no back bone like normal snow covered mountains. Most of the snow mountains in Chang Tang looked like this probably it was due to the geological movements. There were quite a few chirus or Tibetan antelopes in the valley but I was not interested in this kind of animals anymore after I witnessed a large scale of migration of such animals last year elsewhere.The herbivorous animals here are very quick to reach its original size of the population, such as wild yaks, chirus, Tibetan gazelle, pika, and marmot. When you go into the depths of the Chang Tang, you could hardly be surpised by the sudden appearance of the chirus because they are so common in here. At this time of year, the chirus have already male-female parted. You could see many pregnant female chirus but hardly see any males. According to recent research, Zonag Co is not the only lake for breeding. There are at least four of them in the whole Chang Tang. Zonag Co, Tuzi Hu, Heishi Beihu, and another lake I can not remember. I think there must be more than four of them and most of the populations do not migrant long way like most people used to think. They generally migrant from south to north between Central Mountains and Kunlun Mountains.The chirus looks very timid but are very curious about outside world. They are not really afraid of people, particularly in the depth of the Chang Tang. The nearest distance we can approach is about 30m. They just stare at you calmly and think who you are and why you move so slow. They would run in front of you. Look like they are afraid of you but the fact is they are playing with you. A man's own character shapes his fortune. This is of course suit for animals too. The chirus are the typical one. They have a super speed and a pair of sharp antlers. If they are crazy, three of them work together could easily kill a wolf. But as you might have known, their antlers are just for fighting to mate with females.Down the Daban there was a very steep and straight road, I tried to ride the bicycle but ended up with falling over. The front rack came loose and one of the pannier flew into valley. The foot of the mountain was the Yueya Hu covered by ice, which was alake full of heavy metal elements. Along the lake bank there were many stark rocks very much weathered, lining up just like castles or houses. This made me stop to investigate what they were from time to time, I did understand they were just rocks though but they were so real like the figures of real people. On of them even made me hide in a ditch, observing them again and again using my binoculars. There were also many black volcanic rocks. All in all, the features of this area were really unusual.Passed over the Yueya Hu, it was an endless ancient lake bed. What my GPS showed was this area was a big lake like tentacles. I looked around, it was endless wilderness without a piece of ice and a drop of water. Roughly, I estimated this lake bed was about 1200 square meters. I had to tell you that Chang Tang was a place where there was no high-resolution map. The marks in the map often were some kind of memory. Just like this ancient lake bed under my feet, may be it was full of water a few years ago. Who knows. Pushing the bike in such an endless lake bed was very easy to get lost. My mind was in a chaotic status too.The migration of the animals, photo taken last year The road rising up to the Daban, full of gravels, very hard, ideal for pushing your bikeThe Yueya Hu gazed at by the round and smooth Toze Gangri. At a glimpse, could you tell which was mountain, which was cloud?Ancient lake bed. The white stains were the alkali, look like ice. About wildlife (part 1)Declaration Personal experience for reference onlyDangerous wild animals and their threats to human beings are a ever-LASTING subject for those backpackers travelling in the wild.In Chang Tang, for example, there are two kinds of deadly animals, one is wolves and the other is brawn bears. As substitutes, wild yaks and crows might be dangerous to you in some circumstances that I will come back to this a little bit later on. As for how to protect yourself against these dangerous animals, I think the primary point is you do not try to hurt them because the emotions of human and animals are same instinctively. [Wolves]Throughout my journey, I met wolves a total of seven times, in which I confronted them five times. As you might have known that wolves have become more and more solitary animals, it is very rare they live in a large group nowadays. Please allow me off the point a little bit and talk about the ecological problems in Chang Tang. The problem is now not the decrease of the number of the chirus but the imbalance of the whole food chain, more specifically, the number of the animals on the higher trophic levels of the food chain has not yet reached its ideal level which results in this kind of imbalance. Particularly, the pikas and the marmots who have lost their predators rapidly expanse which results in the desertification of Chang Tang. As early as the middle of last century, wolves were the dominant predators in the vast wilderness. They became a threat not only to other preys but also nomads pasturing in this land. Therefore, the then government called on people to cull back the population of the wolves in Chang Tang, which resulted in the current situation directly. The last official record about wolves attacking humans was around 1970s, which happened in Bamaoqiongzong. A team of secientists was surrounded by a group of wolves and they had to shoot them using guns. Of course, at present in Chang Tang, wolves are absolutely lonely.In this traverse, the first time I encountered a pair of wolves, one of them staying in front of me pretending to attack me while the other staying behind me. This is the standard attacking strategy of wolves. First, you should not be nervous which can be easily detected by the predators. Second, you should not retreat even an inch because this means you are the prey rather than the predator. Do not make any large movement, of course you could take a picture if you feel safe to do so. You must look into its eyes for a few minutes or even half an hour. When the wolves can not work out who you are and consider you are not posing any danger to them, then they will leave. You should remember that wolves in this land do not lack of food and it is much easy for them to catch a pika than a human. Even if being hungry, they would evaluate how easy to get you done, What you need to do is to show them that you are not interested in them and you are not afraid of them at all, let alone to show your ID card to them. As for the wolves family, really, I have not heard for ages. If you really have an encounter with them and they have no other choice, then it definitely depends on your forture. In fact, for so many year, it has been very rare to happen that wolves kill human. But the rumours are still there, in particular, the road connecting Xinjiang and Tibet.The nearest encounter with a wolf throughout my journey, no conflict at all[Brown Bears]Brown bears are real dangerous animals to human. Every year there are some accidents happened in some regions of Xinjiang on the north side of Kunkun Mountains and steppes in Northern Tibet. More than that the bears could attack your house, smash your windows, and eat your sheep. Therefore, in Northern Tibet some local councils give subsidies to the pastorarists for compensating the losses due to the bears because they are not allow to fight back and kill the bears except their lives are in great danger. Once there was a nomad taught me a method to protect yourself from bears. He told me to pick up a stick to feed the bear and the bear thinks the stick is your hand which tastes disgusting. So the bear would leave. It was so funny but the reality is to find a stick in this vast wilderness is just like you win the lottery.Bears are omonivorous animal who are generally not interested in human flesh. You can find that in most of accidents, the bears did not eat any of the human flesh rather they just smashed them for kind of fun that we could not understand. For the reason why bears kill human, one explanation is the conflict between human and wildlife in this extreme ecological environment. The nomads invade the habitats of the bears, which results in these conflicts. On the other hand, it might be because bears have quite high IQ so that they think it is much easy to kill a sheep in the cote rather than to kill a pika in the wild.I have met bears five times in my traverse, in two cases we were very close to each other. I had even walked with one of them for quite a while, just like we had a date for a walk. The fact is it is not that terrible like you might imagine. The same rules for dealing with wolves apply to bears. Never provoke dangerous animals. A bear can run at a speed of 40km/h, do you think you can compete this in a highland 5,000m above sea level?However, there is a situation where it is really dangerous, that is the encounter. It is not easy to control your instinctive reaction to the external dangers. Last year once I turned around a hill, there was a bear just in front of me. The bear of course was frightened by me with its front legs holding up, waving in the air and roaring. At that time I sat on the ground, ignoring it. The bear then left in a few minutes. Chang Tang is a vast land so that this is not that easy to happen. But if it does happen, really only God can bless you.The nearest encounter with a bear throughout my journey. This bear disappeared in a herd of wild yaks, which I had tried hard to spot, really weird About wildlife (part 2)Declaration personal experience for reference only.[Wild Yaks]I have talked about quite a few, like in the post of Day10. I will no longer talk about it.This was the funniest encounter with a solitary wild yak, who did not warn me. If I sat down, it sat down too. If I moved forward, it stopped. Could not imagine what it was thinking about.[Crows]Crows are dangerous only when you fall unconscious in the wilderness. Of course they will be the first to taste your flesh in that case. Unlike their cousinsliving in urban areas, the crows in Chang Tang have a larger body like eagles. When they fly over your head, you could feel like it is a piece of cloud. They are scavengers but like fresh meat too. It once happened that a baby was killed by crows relentlessly, let alone the lambs got killed by them. Once a nomad asked me for fireworks to scare the crows away. (They are sacred birds not to be killed by human)It is easy to defend yourself against crows, that is to keep fighting, never fall in the wilderness.A short break attracted the crows. Of course, they were miscalculating this time, photo taken last year[Strategies Adopted]At the time when I met the four soldiers in Jieshan Daban, they said there were many dangerous animals in the Northern Tibet and asked me if I had brought a shotgun. I think if they knew that I would enter Chang Tang they would definitely check if I really have a shotgun. The so-called defence facilities I brought with me were the fireworks and pepper spray. I had never used them. The fireworks were ruined and thrown away when I crossed a river and I had never opened the pepper spray. I even had never thought about this when camping in the night. The reason was I did not feel the needs. During the day time whenever I met any animals I had never touched the knife I had brought. I did not have anything to defend myself when I walked out to investigate the route. The Chang Tang is really a vast area so as to be very easy to detect anything strange.By the way, you'd better to avoid mating season's animals because even tamed rabbits could be aggressive in mating season.The thing is even if you have a gun, it is not very much helpful when bears attack you. Therefore, your attitude is most important.I can tell you something. Dogs are more dangerous than these wild animals. I had been chased by Tibetan dogs, pounced on by dogs in mating season, also besieged by a group of dogs. I really feel it is more useful to know how to defend a dog.Declaration again The above experience is from Chang Tang only. Of course, the more you prepared, the better. Day 12 (May 1), 23.8km, Camping 5117mToday was May 1 -- the Labour Day, I had been walking in some lake area marked in the map but clearly dried up. The lake basin was flat and hard so that I even pushed my bike more than 20km. Let it be the special treat for my May Day. After midday it became cloudy with growing winds. Since the Yueya Hu that I passed yesterday, there were no big lakes until Yanghu Co (My route would be between Jianshui Hu and Bairab Co), there was even no light alkaline water to drink so I had to pay extra attention not to miss any possible drinking water supply to fill up my water bag. There were a few very small lakes but all were alkaline puddles which was very shallow, whose depth was no more than the length of a half-finger. These puddles were covered with a hard shell of the mixture of salt and ice which smelled stinking and decaying when getting closer, must be toxic water I supposed. On the shore of this type of small lakes it was muddy soil and very hard to get closer.There was no sign of tundra at all.It was almost half past six when I found some snow corns in a ditch, which was the only drinking water supply of the day. There was a thin layer of melted ice on the surface of the ground near the snow corn, which was very hard to collect and was contaminated by the alkali. The snow corn was the yet melted thick snow, which was shaped like a corn by wind. The snow was quite hard and dry,porous like ice. I crushed a few snow corns, putting them into the water bag.They would be my drinking water tonight. These snow corns were the only one in today's wilderness, I reckoned the reason why they were not melted like others was the soil underneath contained large amount of ice blocks which acted as a freezer.Very strong gale in the night, it was hard to bear the sound of the vibration of the tent. Small single tent was good in the sense that it would not be blown away as long as you stayed inside. But you had to be very careful to set up the tent. I once did not pay much attention when doing so, the tent was blown away by winds, and rolling over like a Giant lantern ... I ran after it, got it back, and was exhausted. In general, it is not possible to fix the tent completely using tent pegs because they were not very much effective like large tents. It was snowing around 23 o'clock, the winds were howling from north,then the falling snow flakes landed on my tent quietly, I finally felt at peace and fell asleep. The flat ancient lake basin, assisting me walking more than 20kmSmall lake en route, toxic waterSnow corns, the only drinking water supply today Day 13 (May 2), 0km, Camping 5117mWaking up in the morning and opening the tent, the heavy snow outside must be sent by the God to force me have a break for the May Day. After lying in for a while, getting up and walking on the snowy ground out I went to have a look around. As first sight there were a herd of chirus. They were plainly to be spotted because they looked like a clear black straight line in the while snow. I returned to get my camera and then followed them to take some pictures. But they were very much alert and kept a quite long distance from me. I felt they were a group of pregnant females, instinctively protecting themselves from any potential harm. I was no longer short of water, the snow gave me a precious supply of drinking water. The problem was that they were very petrol consuming. I tool 8.6 litre of petrol and the oil stove was Duola's MSR. The pot was of 1.5 litre, mainly for boiling water. After several days' experiments, I found that the liquid water needed 16mins and 14-15mins to boil in the morning and evening, respectively. For ice, it would take 35-40mins while for snow it took 45-50mins. Melting snow was a very time and petrol consuming process so if I had a choice between snow and light alkaline water, most of time I would go with the latter. Lying inside the tent, listening to musics,I smoked a cigarette while gazing at the more and more chirus around me. Because it was very cold I had been wearing my shoes all the time. Now I just put my bare feet under the warm sun for some fresh air. I found three cuts in my hands and one in my sole. The cuts were about 4cm in length, looked terrible but it was actually all right really. Half of my toes were injured by to much walking, quite painful. I fetched my medicine bag and found I only got four patches of plasters, a serious mistake. One of the cuts in my hand had never been cured until I was out of this desolate land so as to feel like this finger would drop from my hand at any time. The others quickly recovered in a few days then new cuts appeared elsewhere. This process occurred periodically. I felt that it was somewhat related to the cold, dry weather and the lack of vitamins. The snow rapidly disappeared, which is unique phenomenon in Chang Tang. Because of the low air humidity and the high radiation from the sun, the snow was evaporating very fast, much quicker than the melting speed. Owing to this, the ground was generally still dry after the snow disappeared. In most cases, it would be only 2/5 left in the afternoon around 2 to 3 o'clock and small patches of ground could be seen. It would be completely all right for walking the next day. On the third day there could be some snow left in somewhere the sunlight hard to reach. So generally it could give you three days of water supply after a heavy snow like this. One of the pannier was broken, the most expensive one from deuter series, supposed to be waterproof. I will come back to it at some point later. Everything was covered by snow, no way out Lying in the middle of Chang Tang, listening to Tian Zhen's songs, and smoking Baisha cigarettes, what else can you ask for? The pregnant female chirus in migration, probably heading to Heishi Beihu to give birth([]
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林镇宇南疆，影像及文字游记已经相当泛滥，再发似乎意义不大。 纠结良久，感觉某些视角还是有所不同。可以说，大多数的游记照片主要是若干较为精彩的点，这里记录的是线甚至是面，所以不管你走过、还是没有走过，只要耐心看完，也许都会.有.所收获。 照片约半数是在行驶的车上所拍，清晰度不够好；另外，筛选也不充分，存在部分雷同，还请见谅。 外一帖： 柬埔寨越南多层面全方位巡游 https//bbs.8264.com/thread-970955-1-1.html 给出了各部分链接，可以选择浏览。 以下是行程概要： 7月13日-16日福州往乌鲁木齐 关键词：西安、乌鲁木齐人民广场、红山公园、人民公园。 7月17日重游吐鲁番及往和硕 关键词：火焰山、葡萄沟、维吾尔古村、交河故城、坎儿井。 https//bbs.8264.com/thread-965058-4-1.html 7月18日巴音布鲁克天鹅湖九曲十八弯 关键词：壮美大草原、天鹅湖、九曲十八弯。 https//bbs.8264.com/thread-965058-13-1.html 7月19日巴音布鲁克往轮台 https//bbs.8264.com/thread-965058-20-1.html 7月20日阿克苏天山大峡谷克孜尔千佛洞 关键词：天山魔鬼地貌、天山大峡谷、克孜尔千佛洞、千泪泉。 https//bbs.8264.com/thread-965058-23-1.html 7月21日塔克拉玛干沙漠穿越及和田 关键词：塔克拉玛干大沙漠、壮观固沙草堤、和田。 https//bbs.8264.com/thread-965058-39-1.html 7月22日和田往喀什及喀什扫描 关键词：大清真寺、香妃墓、喀什老城、人民公园、河畔风光。 https//bbs.8264.com/thread-965058-44-1.html 7月23日喀什往塔县及白沙湖喀湖红其拉普 关键词：白沙湖、喀拉库勒湖、墓士塔格峰、公格尔山、塔什库尔干县、红其拉暜口岸。 https//bbs.8264.com/thread-965058-56-1.html 7月24日塔县石头城及往喀什阿克苏 关键词：石头城、塔什库尔干大草原、塔县到喀什沿途奇妙景观。 https//bbs.8264.com/thread-965058-73-1.html 7月25日阿克苏往博斯腾湖及和硕 关键词：博斯腾湖原生态美景、快艇飞驰。 https//bbs.8264.com/thread-965058-90-1.html 7月26-27日和硕往乌鲁木齐 关键词：沿途景观、乌鲁木齐扫街。 https//bbs.8264.com/thread-965058-111-1.html 7月28日西安候车扫街 关键词：西安扫街。 利用西安转车间隙，打算看下园博会，结果令人失望，于是折回。 多次路经西安，转车之余总喜欢坐上公交到处乱逛。 呵呵，还是大雁塔。 往乌鲁木齐途中。 林则徐塑像，对于福州人而言倍感亲切啊！ 再重游下人民公园。 吐鲁番景点游一次都嫌多了，这次是随队第二次走，身不由己啊。 到葡萄沟了。 和硕街道。 此前几十公里的公路都在翻修，车子只能走旁边的便道，时速大约20公里。 到达巴音布鲁克。 巴音布鲁克草原平整、广阔、水肥、草美，质量比那拉提好很多，不过那拉提草原有高山、河流、森林点缀总体美感较好！由于一路车速太快，照片大都没拍好，这张是很一般的景色。 天鹅湖起行点。据称到天鹅湖是沼泽地（其实只是丰水季节湖水上涨会淹没部分草地，行走不便而已），需要花费60元骑马。哈！俺快走15分钟就到了天鹅湖，比骑马的还早了一步。 很侥幸，看到天鹅，可惜是落单的（天鹅总是出双入对从一而终，落单必有缘故）。原以为天鹅落单可能是受伤了，现在看它正常飞了起来。 回到起行点。 九曲十八弯初见端倪。 登顶后的马儿。 巴音布鲁克街景。 巴音布鲁克去往轮台途中。 几十公里的路段都在修路。 巴轮台荒废的火车站。 巴轮台街景。 住宿处。 原计划由轮台穿越塔克拉玛干沙漠到民丰、和田，由于2天前和田突发袭警杀人事件，于是临时调整行程，先行前往阿克苏。 去往阿克苏途中. 去往天山大峡谷沿途风光。 天山大峡谷渐行渐近。 到达天山大峡谷景区。([
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王力依1、两年一梦转加拉 2013年3月28日到4月5日，经过近两年的酝酿和筹备，西藏林芝转加拉朝圣之旅终于圆满完成。 转加拉，两年一梦。 在中国最美丽的春天，看那娇艳的桃花，在尘世中简单而努力地绽放。徒步世界最大的峡谷，观那雅鲁藏布江翡翠般的迷人项链百折不挠地生生不息。瞻中国最美丽的雪山，云雾朦胧中感动于南迦巴瓦圣洁的女神安详沉睡。访天脉神湖娜拉错，长途跋涉的艰辛只为换来看你一眼，天地一体洁白别样的风情不负两年的梦绕魂牵。穿行于莽莽林海雪原，在虚幻的童话世界里惊喜地感受真实。 两年一梦，转加拉！ 晚至八一，大醉！ 欢迎加入“老史的驴友们”QQ群：9183788. （本图片摄影：五月的麦子） 2、感谢有你！ 在全体队友齐心协力下，转加拉朝圣之旅安全、顺利、圆满完成。感谢所有队友的辛勤付出。 在尽情感受领悟、慢慢回忆品味那一幅幅美景的同时，你还记不记得那一路上一幕幕尽情的欢笑？ 2013，清明，西藏林芝，转加拉朝圣。感谢天！感谢地！感谢有你！ 人生如旅途，祝所有的朋友一生平安！ 3、 行程安排 3月28日，拉萨--工布江达县。 3月29日，工布江达县--嘎拉村--派镇。 3月30日，派镇--吞白村--索松村。徒步，扎营。 3月31日，索松村--达林村--赤白村。徒步，农家。 4月1日，赤白村--加拉村。徒步，扎营。 4月2日，加拉村--直白村。徒步，扎营。 4月3日，直白村--格嘎村--南迦巴瓦大本营。徒步，扎营。 4月4日，南迦巴瓦大本营--松林口--娜拉错--松林口。徒步，扎营。 4月5日，松林口--派镇--八一。酒店。 4月6日，八一--拉萨。酒店。 4、这是一条有着浓郁文化底蕴的线路 据传，莲花生大师在西藏传授佛法时，颇受阻折，同时他也预知了未来世界之乱。于是，莲华生大士依循着大悲的因缘，为了保存佛法，在东、南、西、北及中藏地区埋下了108处伏藏。这些很多教法、佛像、法药埋在不同的领域里——有的在瀑流，有的在山岩，有的在虚空，甚至有的在圣者的甚深禅定之中。 加拉一带，相传是莲花生修行和传教的重点地域之一。古茹洞、阎罗宫、洞不弄等圣地也成为信教群众的朝圣点。 长久以来，经历代掘藏师及高僧开发，加上信教群众的风尘仆仆的脚步，逐渐形成了转加拉朝圣路。 5、这是一条有着壮美自然景观的徒步线路。 海拔7782米的南迦巴瓦2005年被《中国国家地理》评为中国最美的雪山。在本徒步线路中，会有多个不错的观测点；世界最大的雅鲁藏布江大峡谷奔腾不息。在本徒步线路中，会有5天的时间近距离感受她的呼吸。两江汇流、直白小拐弯等自然景观亦值得期待。 6、这是一条追寻内心平静禅定之路 在川滇藏，各种“错”星罗棋布。但在南迦巴瓦的怀抱里，有那么一个“错”独居深闺，人迹罕至。这就是天脉神湖娜拉错。清明假期间的娜拉错冰清玉洁的样子，会给你的内心怎样的平静和震憾？ 7、爱她，和她在林芝看桃花 三月的林芝，桃花朵朵开。 雪山下，雅江边。田间，村头。山脚下，半山腰。一株株古老的桃树正绽放着芬芳。林芝的桃花，清闲淡雅而不妖艳，自有一种自然脱俗的韵味在枝头。 与雪山为伴，与雅江为友，与青稞低语，与白云相依。林芝的桃花，在山色空濛中，为西藏的江南春色，增添了磅礴而细密的一笔。 爱她，和她在林芝看桃花！ 8、3月28日，成都飞往拉萨途中。 3月28日，成都飞往拉萨的航班晚点半小时后起飞。此前，通过自助值机选择了一个左侧靠窗的座位。 天气真好，连绵的雪山如在眼前。鸟瞰的感觉很棒。人生就是这样，也像一只鸟儿，只有飞到一定的高度，才能更清楚地看清脚下和远方的路。虽然那样可能更累。 真的到了那个时候，你会不会因为有了更高的目，而继续迷茫甚至苦恼？ 9、生命的痕迹 苍穹如洗。远处，一架飞机滑过，在天空中留下了一道印迹。然后，消失。 雅安地震发生了，带走了数百人的生命，为无数的人留下了身体与心灵上的创伤。关于自然，关于人类，关于生命，关于生活的本真与意义，又涌上脑头。人的生命，短暂而脆弱。在谋生的同时，在尽义务的同时，我们是不是也应该考虑，怎么才让这短暂的生命更有意义。 10、南迦巴瓦的影子 这条线路，实际上是“转加拉朝圣”与“徒步南迦巴瓦大本营”两条线路的结合体。看南迦巴瓦，当然是行程中的一个重点内容。 在从成都飞往拉萨的空中，我一直盯着舷窗外面看，试图从空中看到南迦巴瓦穿过云层的伟岸身姿。 11、神奇的冰湖 冰湖舷窗下，一“汪”冰雪之湖出现在眼前。白白的、纯净得如同一杯酸奶，安静地躺在大山的怀抱里。从形状上看，这好像是人工修筑的一个水坝，四周光滑平整。在这样的海拔高度，不知这个冰雪之湖覆着多么厚的冰雪。 没有人能走近她。在这个神奇的世界上，她兀自静立。 12、美丽的贡嘎河谷 经过两个多小时的飞行，飞机抵达贡嘎机场的上空。 美丽的贡嘎河谷蜿蜒曲折。河水绿中泛蓝，蓝中含绿，在荒瘠的山间，却分割构勒出一副美丽奇妙的画卷。 原始而荒凉的美似乎更能震撼人们柔软的内心。我们往往迷恋于这种美丽。 但在美丽的背后，却是隐忧。冬春季节，河水回落，河床裸露部分极易成为扬尘和浮尘的发源地。致使贡嘎机场上空能见度降低，威胁着贡嘎机场的安全。特别是冬春季节，大风扬沙天气出现的可能性更大。所幸，扬沙天气影响的航班，主要是下午起降的航班，对早晨（上午）起降的航班，影响较小。所以，不管你是进藏还是出藏，还是选择上午的航班更踏实些。 13、告诉我，你怎样去生活 宠物在争分夺秒地学习。吉祥在打酱油。 河童从重庆中转来西藏。杯具的是，她急急忙忙提前就赶到了机场，航班却取消了！ “我的航班取消了！怎么办？”看着河童发来的短信，我似乎看到了她两眼涌出的喷泉般的泪。马上回了一条：“我们没时间等你了，你改成重庆几日游吧！” 根据原订计划，先期抵达拉萨的一凡提前准备好气罐等相应物资，然后直接和包车司机师傅到机场接我们，然后直接赶往派镇。 很明显，计划又要再一次重新调整。 这次行程，我把计划A调整成计划B，把计划B调整成计划C，把计划C调整成计划D。最后，从终点又回到了起点。 原来通报一凡我们9点半到达贡嘎机场。上飞机后短信通知他，飞机晚点半个小时。只要上过小学的人，不用列算式，应该也能算出我们到达贡嘎机场的时间。 不知道一凡在仓姑寺喝甜茶，还是借喝甜茶的幌子看美女。这厮居然计划中午12点来贡嘎机场。 生活就是这样，如果你无力改变它，那就转变一下思路，干脆好好地享受吧。 于是，我们无奈地，在贡嘎机场享受品味了把休闲时光。 14、贡嘎机场，等待队友的休闲时光 生活总在不经意处让你有所收获。 如果不是闲得实在实在实在太无聊，我都不知道机场的小推车坐起来居然可以那么舒服。 15、小景亦有大美 盼望着，盼望着，政委和司机终于来了。河童下午三点才能到达贡嘎机场。这么长的时间，总不能只在机场的广场上晒太阳。在机场附近随便找了个地方，品尝了下既难吃又昂贵的午餐后，我们让司机随便拉我们去个地方看风景。 沿着公路走了一段，路边的一段小河沟引起了我们的注意。天真蓝，云真美，普通的这么一个小河沟，居然也可以这么美。 如果是在内地，这样的小河沟，我猜环保局长真不一定敢下去游泳。 16、著名摄影师麦子在创作 这次转加拉朝圣，是和麦子第一次一起出行。以前只是在论坛上和群里见她发照片。时间久了，对摄影师的膜拜之情与日俱增。 我不懂摄影，所以对麦子的摄影水平到底高深到什么程度，不知所以。但麦子带了个广角镜头，又扛了个大白兔，这一路上不管再苦再累走得再慢，也不忘摄影。并且还不厌其烦地来回换镜头。然后对着我们又似乎是对着自己长叹：唉，我的胳膊都酸了。 麦子此行最经典的表现，并不是她的摄影水平。因为在一帮菜鸟的眼里，摄影水平高到一定程度，就那么回事了，概念就已经相当模糊。最多是个”高深莫测“一类的评语。至于高深到什么程度？高深在哪些方面？这已经超越了一帮菜鸟和吃货的理解水平。 但这并不说明麦子同学鹤立驴群不和群众打成一片。 在赤白村，麦子在给相机电池充电时，曾经对着插线板对政委发出了一句惊天地泣鬼神的感慨。对她的那句由衷的感叹，大家集体愣了一秒钟然后立马不约而同地笑翻了天。 麦子真是个单纯善良的山东大妞。谁听了那句话谁知道。 17、松赞干布出生地 3月28日下午6点，墨竹工卡县甲玛乡强巴敏久林，松赞干布出生地。我在打酱油，一旁有个藏族男孩在玩耍。 这位出生在松赞干布故地的普通孩子，不知道他怎么理解父辈们的业绩。或者，在英雄与常人之间，后者的人生，对他来讲才更为轻松，更有意义。 从拉萨到松赞干布出生地，一个多小时的车程。 18、几位年轻而美丽的队友在松赞干布出生地牌楼前合影 说起松赞干布，几乎便能同时想到小时候在教科书上就能学到的文成公主。在教科书上，文成公主是一个深明大义的优秀女性，被世代歌颂。在藏族传说中，文成公主也脱离了一个普通人的形象，成为受万人敬仰的神。 在神的光环与人之常情之间，人性往往被刻意地淡忘。 公元640年，唐太宗李世民感于松赞干布的诚意，答应和亲。但这位历史上开创了贞观之治的贤明君主并不舍得将自己的亲生公主远嫁吐蕃。于是，重任就落在了一个叫李雪雁的宗室之女身上。 在那个时代，这位16岁的宗室之女不可能有别的选择。 公元641年，经过长途跋涉，文成公主终于来到了吐蕃。在当时的自然条件下，这个只有X岁的女孩，是以一种什么样的心态，来迎接一个未卜的未来？那个在皇帝面前诚慌诚恐的江夏王，亲自送自己的女儿远嫁他乡时，真的会山呼万岁谢主龙恩？ 成婚路，也是条不归路。 公元650年，与文成公主共同生活了9年之后，松赞干布去世。文成公主又在吐蕃独自生活了30多年。 那个为了迎娶她而建的布达拉宫，不再是她的居所。 在中国，典型都是“塑造”出来的，主旋律都是“唱响”的。在政治与人性之间，在歌颂与真实之间，后者总是那么无奈与缈小。 19、米拉山口 米拉山口。 米拉山口海拔5013米，是拉萨到林芝的必经之地。山口随风舞动的经幡，总是让人感觉那么灵动。过了米拉山口，就到了林芝地界。在林芝一侧，弯弯曲曲的盘山公路和垂直下降一般，海拔急剧下降。 从拉萨经米拉山口到达林芝，海拔从3500米抬升到5013米，再下降到2900米，这样的行程安排，按说不太科学。不过，飞林芝的机票委实比飞拉萨的贵出不少。其实我个人更喜欢这样的安排，旅行么，如果一成不变，那会失去很多的乐趣和意义。 但如果对自己的高反情况没信心，直飞林芝，当然也可能是个更好的选择。 20、米拉山口的吉祥 已近傍晚，天气也不好。不过我们还是在米拉山口逗留了很长的时间。 21、队友河童在米拉山口 河童要求加入的时候，我们其实已经满员了。 可是，我这人在心情好的时候，心肠总是太软，还是很愿意帮助别人的。而那时候，我正好心情很好。所以，面对她入队的要求，了解了她的户外履历后，我有点犹豫。 河童的个性名只有三个字：铜豌豆。 作为一个文科男，我无法不想到关汉卿。其实这应该是很正常的反应。问是，我又莫名其妙地想起了刘胡兰。 在QQ上交流的时候，河童说话很少，并且非常简短，一个字能说明问的话，你很难期望她说两个字。。我答应她考虑一下。就在第二天，河童就在QQ上问我：到底行不行，说个话！这口气，似乎她是队长，而我才是个队员。 我仍然在犹豫。收下河童，就意味着，还要再招一个人。可不收她呢，她又是那么想去。 于是，河童摆明身份，要求加分。于是，队伍扩编。 河童的体力非常好。更可贵的是，她行进中非常有节奏。她虽然话不多，走得也不算太快。但每次我抬起头来搜寻队友的时候，总是看到她在前头。 河童是个比较单纯的80后，年龄在队内最小，所以，这一路上，我们经常逗着她玩开玩笑。不能不说，河童的脾气非常好。虽然她的性格比较沉静，但学习成绩仍然不可避免地不断提高。于是，我们经常一边大笑，一边倍感欣慰。 体力好，只是河童的一个方面。在关键时刻，河童是一个值得信任的好孩子。行程结束返回八一，我们几个都醉了。结束时河童搀扶着队友向外走的镜头，一直定格在我的脑海里。 她扶起了队友，也担起了作为一名队友对队伍的道义。这是一个不善言谈，但值得信赖的队友。作为活动的召集人，我很感激。 河童，如果有下次，下次我们再一起！ 22、米拉山口的麦子 大白兔就是很沉，麦子视为宝贝的镜头，差点丢在了这里。 23、米拉山口 米拉山口的两头大牦牛，真是威武雄壮！ 24、3月29日，工布江达县前往八一的路上 行程结束返回八一时，在那个宾馆隔壁的饭店里，当我们一边嚼着什么什么鸭一边讨论这次出行时，我就很郑重地宣布过，这次出行，无论是线路来说，还是团队和谐程度来说，都是我这么多年来出行中最精彩的一次。没有之一！ 后来我一直在想，像我这么一个常年呆在办公室，皱着眉头，黑着脸，板着脸，了无风趣的人，怎么带出了这么一支队伍？到底是什么因素，让我们这一路上一次次地说唱逗闹，笑翻了天？ 整理照片看到这一幅时，我终于明白了。我是被他们给带坏了。 这世上，有些事，开始，就注定了结局。。。 25、飒爽的麦子 不戴帽子的麦子，更有那么一股灵动的精气神。 26、大长腿的大长炮 27、吉祥 2011年国庆节，我和大兵、宠物等一起走了丙中洛、碧罗雪山、雨崩。吉祥也是计划中的队友之一。但因事没能去成。 2012的国庆节，我和大兵、宠物等一起走阿里。吉祥也是计划中的队友之一。但因事又没去成。 这次，转加拉，吉祥终于成行了。 我应该打心眼里发自内心深处地好好谢谢吉祥。因为自从有了她，我这个传说中的“鸽子王”，终于可以摘掉这顶帽子了。 鸽子年年有。今年特别多。 第一批队友满员的时候，飞马了解了吉祥的光辉事迹后就曾经对吉祥说：今年你一定要成行哦，不然的话，就把你当鸽子炒了吃！ 道上有句话，叫：与人方便，与己方便。那意思好像是说：别把人逼急了啊，给别人留条后路，其实也在给自己留条后路。 飞马明显地没给自己留后路，因为就在我们出发前没几天，他自己因事退出了。 我估计，当吉祥听到这个消息时，说不定一边表示婉惜，一边在偷偷地笑：应该炒谁呢？ 吉祥的体力非常好。貌似我们俩个刚开始认识，是因为爬哈巴雪山的事情。后来她去了玉珠峰，并且登顶成功。当她站在玉珠峰顶，伸出两个指头，露出那两排大牙，对着相机大笑，现场演示什么叫2的时候（当然，她可能认为别人会理解成是胜利的意思），我还在背着个大包在某一并不知名的线路上徒步。 后来，吉祥又走过了龙眼。这条线路，在我眼里，也是大神级别的。于是，对吉祥的膜拜之情便如雅鲁藏布江般滔滔不绝。 不知道是因为长得苗条，还是体力太好，吉祥走起路来和那微风一样，轻轻地轻轻地就飘过去了。一愣神的功夫，就只有拍她背影的份。 吉祥性格开朗，乐观向上，吃苦耐劳，脾气格外地好。她做的香菇面条，那种香气，至今还在我的舌尖上萦绕。 温婉的吉祥很善解人意。 比如，在我长得黑还是长得成熟这个话上，吉祥和河童就持有鲜明的迥然不同的观点。吉祥一边笑，一边表扬我长得成熟。但河童就不同了。回来的时候和河童聊天谈到蚊子多的问，河童说她手上被咬了几个包，还留下了疤痕。我很奇怪，那我怎么就一口都没被咬呢？河童撇了撇嘴说：你长得太黑了，蚊子看不见你！ 其实我发自内心地感谢并且佩服吉祥。我的不少照片，就是吉祥给我拍的。要知道，把一个又黑又丑的小老头，拍成个师哥，仅有高超的摄影技术是远远不够的，那还需要相当的心理承受能力。 吉祥，五一、端午、国庆节、明年、后年、大后年、大大后年、大大大后年～～你有啥计划啊？一起不？ 28、工布江达县去八一的路上 其实，在路边，只有这么一棵孤零零的桃树。却让我们折腾了20多分钟的时间。 飞出了藩篱的鸟儿，对自由，总是那么惊喜与渴望。 29、大好春光 坐在车里，按捺不住激动。我们干脆要求下车，步行。司机师傅很好，善解人意地把车开到远远的前面等我们。 岂能浪费，这大好春光。 30、藏地民居 ([]
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郭南季有人说：看书或者旅行，总有一个在路上。 书山有路，有景，有梦。有的是语言画出美丽的憧憬。 旅游劳累、辛苦，但有的是真切、是触摸。 路在脚下，随时恭候您的光临. 梦在心里，随时出发。 -----梅花烙2011年年底刚开始，一颗想走出去的心又开始按捺不住的蠢蠢欲动。喜欢在路上的感觉，徒步、登山、旅行、自驾，游泳、滑雪、骑车.摄影都是不同的体验，各自有乐趣。但我想说，走更远的路，看更美的风景，用双眼拍更美的风景；这是我内心最强烈真实的愿望，这是，不变的理想，也是我做一切事情的动力，就来源于出发点，只要不忘初衷，哪怕前路艰辛，也会甘之如饴。 万水千山里，总有我的足迹。我希望，并期待着。或许是因为你的神秘，或许是因为你的美丽，从我知道你开始，你就像一个魔咒，在吸引着我，召唤着我。对你的向往和思念几乎是与日俱增，终于，我再也抵挡不住你的魔力，踏上了此次西藏之行。你是高高在上的神山，你永远在那里，不悲不喜，不惊不兀；而我，应该以怎样的面貌出现在你面前？ 今夏；我们一行4人，一车历经了千山万水，长途跋涉，在路途中所经历的的一切苦难，我们所有的坚持，都是为了看到前方我们所向往的风景。但是往往风景，并不是终点，而就在我们的路途中，就在我们坚持的过程中。这些天的高原日子，所谓的沉淀，无非就是坚持，再有的，依然-------拉开了我的西藏之行。 只要来西藏的人，知道的人都很想去玛吉阿米，我也来了、、、玛吉阿米，藏语中即“未嫁娘”之意。玛吉阿米这个名字，出自六世达赖喇叭仓央嘉措的情诗，相传是仓央嘉措情人的名字。而当年仓央嘉措与玛吉阿米幽会的地方，正是玛吉阿米所在的那个土黄色小楼。这段美好而浪漫的情歌和故事，将在每一位过客的心里，烙上久久的“美丽遗梦”。到了夜晚，布达拉宫仿佛梦境般呈现在我的面前，千辛万苦换来此刻的幸福，我彻底拜服了自己的决定。第二天，耐不住的我，让他们带我去穿梭在八廊街的小巷子里，那些带着历史气息和不同气质的民族,吸引着我。第二天，耐不住的我，让他们带我去穿梭在八廊街的小巷子里，那些带着历史气息和不同气质的民族,吸引着我。 沿着布达拉宫，大昭寺有很多朝圣之人，他们有的三跪九叩，有的拿着转经筒，穿着藏服，内心虔诚。真是三步一磕头呢！全民信教的地区，即使是我这种无信仰的人看到都深受震撼！ 赶紧和当地的藏民合影一张照片！也许只有身在西藏，才被洗礼，才会如此放松、无所顾忌，感觉心灵是自由的，在这里，环境、宗教、人文的感染力、震撼力只有身在其中才能切身感受的到。晚上 ，我们终于住在平措的青年旅社，五湖四海的朋友都汇聚在这，每天都可以看到很多的人来住宿，打开房间，住的旅馆的墙壁上，满满的都是驴友留下的照片和留言~承载着青春的梦想。 你来不来，它就在哪里！不远不近！早上，下起了小雨，我起来的很早，在平措青年旅馆，邂逅了2位来自上海旅游的妹妹，带着我们去了拉萨的茶馆。拉萨有很多茶馆，简陋、拥挤、但是铁炉子里的牛粪烧的很旺，藏民们都聚在茶馆里喝茶聊天，享受着简单快乐和幸福。在满屋子新奇的眼光中，我狼吞虎咽地吃完了一碗藏面5元，我们4个人喝了一大水壶的甜茶，吃完喝完高兴的离开了，去我们的下一站。 第一站不期而至的惊喜 ------- 贡嘎曲德寺 因为遗忘，所以美丽。随着上海的2个妹妹，到了贡嘎曲德寺。一切仿佛在电影电视中看到这样的情景，而真实的寺庙在我面前。让我的如此的好奇，随同他们进寺庙。在西藏辽阔的土地上，应该有许多像贡嘎曲德寺一样的地方，默默无闻，鲜有外人光顾，网上也很难搜索有关它们详细的信息。正如偶然走进别人遗忘的贡嘎曲德寺一样，才欣然概叹：这才是梦中的西藏啊！悠远、宁静、苍茫、安详、任时间流转。与世无争，与世独立。 贡嘎曲德寺位於西藏贡嘎县境内，是拉萨近内着名的萨迦派寺院之一，距今已有数百年的历史。据传，贡嘎曲德寺始建於元代未年，大殿四墙绘有大型佛本生故事壁书，色彩艳丽，笔法精湛，壁书为明清时代所绘；其绘书风格与大殿内的壁书有很大差异。如装饰图案、卷草纹图案明显地受到了白居寺及古格书派的影响，大经堂正中佛殿的背后是一凹形的转经迥廊，迥廊两墙都绘满了大型佛经故事，绘书的年代约在清代以前，但由於迥廊内阴暗潮湿，大部分壁书开始剥落毁坏，急需加以修复和补救。 佛殿的前方为长方形的天窗，用以采光。其天窗的内壁上绘有萨迦五祖，格鲁派宗喀巴师徒，甚至带有明显汉地书风的大肚弥勒佛等绘书作品。其造型生动，色彩鲜艳，生动地表现出格鲁教派支该寺的壁书影响。而对于我这个大城市来的人说：只有在电视、电脑上看到这样的神秘的地方。可是这次是我旅行中不其然的遇见了、、、 也许，梦想在不经意间就可以开始。心动的记忆就这样的展开了。 酥油灯---吉祥的酥油灯，吉祥的光芒照着您的慈祥、吉祥的光芒照亮了您的虔诚 。这时，寺庙传来了叽里咕噜的声音，我好奇的走进寺庙，看着很多的和尚拿着佛经一遍又一遍的在朗读、、、那声音似曾亲切，却无法记住它的美妙之处；那声音似曾忘记，可始终摆脱不了那种余音绕梁的感觉。 马上就要离开了，结束了一天的贡嘎曲德寺参观，大师给我们送了很珍贵的礼物。献哈达，大师自传、许愿，这是我此行的最大收获！ 走出了寺庙，看见一位老人摇动着转经筒，从村子尽头朝我走来，两人的目光相遇的一瞬，老人家给我一个慈祥的笑脸，那笑容亲切的如同对待自家的晚辈。我内心最柔软的弦被拔动了、、、、、只好轻轻的说声再见了 ！默默的祝福老人家平安、健康、快乐！ 第二站羊措雍湖 -----邂逅她叫毛毛，是湖北的一位美术老师，外表娇小的她，可爱。大方，给我留下了很好的印象。、、、、、我们一切不需过多安排和商量，拿上简单行李，背上随行背包，和有缘之人起航了 。相识就是缘分，路上认识了很多朋友，大家一起聊天，看风景。很开心，这就是旅行！羊雍措湖初次见此风景，挺激动啊！ 先和藏獒合影留影。快的无暇顾及沿途的风景，奔向一个、下一个终点。 人生需要一个暂停键，我要记得多按几次。 佛说：“有求皆苦，无求乃乐”。 去迎接新奇，感受未知，接近梦想吧！ 第三站 鲁朗的-------静怡与温柔初到高原，咱都很激动，都挤下车厢下到站台感受一下高原的呼吸，留下自己的足迹 ！终于抵达米拉山口了，海拔5013米。山腰上挂满了经幡，铭记着人们的美好愿望。这种地方必须合影留念！旅游的乐趣，就在于每当自己觉得绝望的时候，前方总有一个未知的惊喜在等着你，上帝关上一道门的同时，一定会为你打开另外一门。一路上的风景，让我大开眼界，总想留下什么、、、、、、 在沿途时不时能看到不少骑行者，看到他们我会自然不自然的想到《转山》里的书豪。对于骑行赴藏，那只能是我的梦，一个不可能实现的梦。所以一路上每次看到他们，我都会对他们由衷、敬意的给与鼓励——加油！好样的！ 我们的车一路前行着，到了美丽的中流砥柱位于川藏路上的尼洋河中游，山高沟深，河流湍急，为尼洋河第一大峡谷，江中一巨石兀然立于江中，背靠神佛山，相传这块巨石是工布地区的守护神——工尊德姆修炼时的座椅。两江汇流处，有一巨石突起在江心，高有百尺左右。能够起中流砥柱之作用，挽狂澜于将倒之时，唯有这块巨石可以当之无愧。明朝的参议蔡潮在这块巨石上建了一个亭子，取名为“跨鳌”亭，并在上面了“砥柱中流”四个字。继续前行，到了尼洋河 、看着河水、草地，心中澎湃；夕阳把整个尼洋河承托的更加美丽了。而我也不忘记给自己留个影，把自己最美丽的笑容，定格在这美丽的尼洋河了。只缘路遇的能懂的人； 走不同的路看不一样的风景，交不一样的朋友感受不一样的人生。到了美丽的-------卡定沟，张开双臂，拥抱大自然，呼吸天然氧吧，给人以清晰的感觉。卡定”藏语是“天上人间 的意思”。卡定沟山峰群群山连绵，颇有点雁荡之气势。仰天观望，群象多姿，让你想象万千。一路往上，游人络绎不绝。 树柳成荫，把美丽的卡定沟装扮的更加美丽，吸引了全国各地的朋友。 午后；迎着阳光走在拉萨的柏油路上，天空时而下着小雨，时而阳光普照大地；一道道晃眼的阳光，让我恍如梦中，我在车里望着远处、、、、南伽八瓦的壮观和雄伟在我面前，看着它的雄伟，内心也被旅行带来的幸福感慢慢填满。一路上的辛苦和高反，也就忘记了。当我怀揣着达到顶峰的信仰与坚强的心都可以踏上这段挑战自我的征途，面对漫漫山路享受雪山、阳光、河流的洗礼，用自己双眼将沿路美景一收眼底。 到了晚上，我们才找到了一家家庭的旅馆，我们住的家庭旅馆主人（姑且叫她卓玛）给我们喝的是主人家自己养的牦牛奶和青稞，旁边是酥油茶。藏香猪、青稞有点像爆米花呢，爆过的，没味道！都是他们自家吃的东西。吃完了我们各自休息了！清晨，在山坡上看下面的村子特别美，远处的天空、大山、溪流，近处的满山的野花、草地，中间稀稀俩俩的屋子，特有感觉 。在每一次出行的时候，面对雪山、草原、阳光、花朵、河流、碧海、蓝天，才能感受到内心真正的自由了，才能沉淀下来倾听和感受，才觉得自己是如此真实地“活着”…… 路边的野花，植被渐渐厚起来，植物的种类也多了~各种颜色的花儿争相开放。美丽的青稞田，即将成熟的美丽大片的田，秋收的喜悦和美感呈现在我的面前鲁朗, 藏语意为"龙王谷",也是"叫人不想家"的地方。 ‘真想永远的停留在这片田园风光。 蔚蓝的天空中，白云飘飘，时而象奔驰的骏马，时而又恰似高原上的牦牛；时而呼啸而去，时而又闲庭信步，象少女婀娜多姿，象小伙热情奔放。 第四站 纳木错 ---心中的圣地 到了海拔5190米的那根拉山口，我们激动得跳下车，到了山口向下一看，纳木错就在眼前。金灿灿的太阳照在雪山上，照在湛蓝湛蓝的那木错湖面上，美得让人喘不过气来。更让我意想不到的是，已经过5000米了，还是没什么反应。看来，珠峰大本营我也应该可以去，那里也就5200米。近了，近了，远远就看见一缎蓝色绸丝挂于天际，视线已经无法辨别它究竟属于哪个节点，理智告诉我，这肯定是地上的湖，可是看过去，纳木错就是在天上。难怪称它是“圣湖”，“天湖”，这样的形容一点不为过，它已经和天连在一起，成为天空的一部分，我的惊喜程度，文字已经无法准确描述，纳木错的美，也许，它就像圣母一样，温柔婉约，博爱，带给你无限的心灵震撼和灵魂的洗礼。 上午乌云密布，午后又是阳光灿烂。 阳光射进云海那一刻，感慨万千。你若盛开，蝴蝶自来，你若精彩，天自安排。雪后的天空变的非常的蓝，接近下午，太阳开始碰到冰川顶，强烈的目光照射下的冰川显得越发晶莹剔透，它冷静而孤单，仰俯着这个被群山包围的纳木错。而我独自享受这梦幻般的景色，陶醉在大自然中，周围的石山都挂满了经书，五颜六色飘于空中像彩旗一样。草地上有几匹马正悠闲的吃着草，沿着石路下来就来到了纳木错的湖边，这是中国最大的咸水湖，传说是王母娘娘沐浴的地方。 有时我的梦想就隐在现实这下那个遥远的梦我做了很久、、、、跋涉千里来到了纳木错它正是我梦中存在了许久的模样涤滤出生灵的原本面貌而我们只在这个地方呆了3天虽不能一直停留在这个地方可是纷繁的遐想也让归隐变成另一种可能 带上美好的心情让我在旅行中感受美丽的风景，那么，风景一定呈现出的是你想要却又无法用语言形容出来的美好！纳木错的湖面就像海一样辽阔，她的美让我无法抗拒。让我在这个圣湖的地方住了3天三夜，吃了3天的方便面。 一切都值得！ 纳木错的湖水十分清澈，能清楚的看到里面的石子，在阳光灿烂的时候它是透明的蓝。 最美不过圣湖的蓝蓝的水，我站在圣湖边，整个人感觉融入在湖水里一样，湖水的海面上一浪又一浪、、、翻着我心中的梦想、下来的时候，我心理很平静，像是被洗过一样的干净，我们在路上，报着各种不同的目的在路上的人，都在寻找些什么，我一直和朋友们说，我是个在路上的人，我在用心感受这世上的每个角落，我要用我的眼睛去寻找我心中的那份感动，朋友们，在你们用双脚丈量这片美丽的世界的时候，请你也用心去感受一下它吧～～谢谢所有关心的朋友们的支持和关注！有你们的一份热情，我会写出更好的游记，给你们带来愉悦的好心情。让你们走出大自然，去享受大自然给予的美好。([]
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寇欢宣首先我想说，我去越南的时间是2011年的春节，不是夏天去的，所以很多东西会不一样。而且跟很多朋友的文章不同，我们的越南之行是百分之百的穷游，所以住的很低准，每人每天按6美元的准住的。全程几乎没去什么饭馆吃饭，基本吃的都是街边摊。而且是我一个女孩子带着老妈出游，我妈从第一天开始就病了，到最后发展成了严重的肺炎，所以，带着一个更年期生病妇女，承受的无休无止的唠叨你懂的....所以与很多人相比，我的观点并不具有可信性。您就看着当笑话一笑而过就可以了。许多东西，每个人的感觉是不一样的。虽然我这篇文章写得很苦逼，但是我心里还是爱着越南的。机票：我刚开始没有确定自己的行程，所以先在去哪网上订了广州到河内的机票，全部加起来是860，回来的机票是在越南通过旅行社订的，太坑爹了竟然花了1600！！！现在在去哪上面找往返机票，加上税也就1200，所以还是早点确定行程比较好，因为是往返，个人觉得河内往返不值得，不如订胡志明往返，因为河内根本不值得去！汇率：去的时候人民币换越南盾大概是13150.美元换越南盾是121000，很多地方有得换，但是千万别在机场换，低死了...而且一定要万万注意汇率损失的问,别换太多越盾了,我们就是换了太多,换回来的时候汇率很不值得,结果损失很多.电话据说如果是漫游的话,发短信是2块钱一条,打电话9块钱一分钟,还是买个当地卡值得,我买的是vietell的卡，65.000盾,差不多人民币22块钱,还是很便宜的,而且这个卡买了还可以打十几分钟的国际长途,本地打电话发短信也都可以.而且过去无聊,满街都是中国人,要了他们电话也可以互相联系认识朋友。交通：越南的摩托车多得吓死人了，但是其实他们技术都很好不会撞到你的，所以马路随便过也没什么问（个人经验）。从北到南大家一般都是坐open bus，越南有很多家做旅游的公司，很多攻略推崇 sinh tourist， TM brother's cafe，hanh cafe，等等...我觉得个个都不是什么好东西,全都很坑爹,所以随便坐一个就可以了,但是要找价钱最低的.sinh tourist跟其他相比的优点就是发车了就不会再停下四处兜客，而且还会发一瓶水一张湿纸巾给你，不过在我看来全是小恩小惠...sinh的网址如下，可以先在线订好全部行程https//www.thesinhtourist.vn/越南打的还可以，但是千万坐正规的那种，而且司机不一定懂英语哦语言：因为去的都是旅游城市，连街边摆地摊的人也懂说英语，但是个人认为还是要学点越南语的，问价钱要会，数字要会，机场什么的最好都学一点，虽然听起来超搞笑超像粗口的。不过，学会了也不是很好，因为你可以听懂老板跟当地人要的价钱比跟你要的低几倍。心里会超级不爽建议1.多人同行,一个人去虽然很小资,但是在住房子上面很不抵,2人间12美元,1人间也要10美元了,建议四人同行,因为有的旅馆的床大得要死,4个人睡双人间也没问,不过这就要看老板是算人头价还是房间价了.2.据说胡志明市很多飞车党抢包,路上遇到的已经听说了至少有2个人被抢过手机或者单反,在越南拿单反的几乎百分百是中国人,所以千万要注意安全3.千万别新年去，年前年后几天都别去，越南人也过春节，满街店铺全体关门了，旅游公司的车也少，而且所有东西的价格都上浮总之各种 杯具。4.越南人虽然还算是比较热情友好的，但是做事非常非常没有效率没有信用，所以别相信他们，尤其是会赚到你的钱的人，全都爱骗人！5.越南司机开车你最好别坐第一排看着他开，否则你肯定吐血，美奈到西贡就215公里，他开了6小时，中途还停下来吃饭，路上一个车也没有他也开40km/h，最快也不超过60.而且超爱接电话鸣喇叭，电话铃又恶心喇叭声超大，其实那些夜车，根本用不了8小时时间的，给中国人开4小时不到就可以到，可是他们就是没效率，做事不负责任慢吞吞。day1：广州-河内到了河内机场后，出来就有机场巴士可以坐，一人，当你看到车上的鬼佬鬼妹纷纷下车的时候你也下车好了，下车就是在河内老城区，还剑湖周围。LP上面会有推荐的旅馆，我们当时没有订，路上一路走一路问，最后住在discovery hotel，17美元双人间，老板英语在越南人里面算是非常非常非常好的，沟通不成问的，但是人品不怎么好，骗我们说快过年了金店全都关门了，结果我们在他那里换美元，才给我们120000的汇率，让我们汇率损失了很多。谈钱伤感情啊！其他方面他就做得还是挺好的。在河内晃了一圈，唯一印象深刻的就是一家叫xoi yen的糯米饭，真的超好吃的说！地址在ma may 和hang bac两条路的交界地方，很好认的！ 其他的，我觉得河内都很无聊，而且物价巨高，吃个快餐也要十几，跟深圳都差不多贵了，吃个粽子竟然要10块！传说中的还剑湖小得要死，也没什么好看，大教堂还是不错，但是还是不值得看，就一个巨大的牌坊，无聊得很。 而且越南做生意的人全国都很不地道，狂宰外国人，东西那么贵，才不要买！discovery hotel地址：Luong Ngoc Quyen St., Hoan Kiem Dist. 河内满街都是假的sinh cafe，discovery就在真的新咖啡所在的那条街上的一间叫cafe de paris周围不远的地方，那片区域初到的时候觉得像迷宫一样，一走就迷路。其实走一天以上你就明白就屁大点地方，街也就那几条，卖的东西也都差不多。刚开始你会觉得米粉还算是可以吃的东西，虽然做法很怪异，从一大团粉里面抓一把泡在汤里就给你了，另外给你一大筐草放在你面前，能认得出的有薄荷叶和生菜还有豆芽，其他都认不出，而且味道很冲，有一种我真的无论如何也习惯不了，估计你们也不怎么可能习惯。如下图day2：这个就是xoi yen店里的糯米饭，大概是人民币13块钱一碗，好吃得要死。 升龙剧院的水上木偶戏。不看后悔，看了也就那回事。这个我真不知道是什么，街边卖的东西还剑湖周围看到的，法棍都用筐装。这个跟肠粉差不多，还挺好吃的，就是特别贵，30.000一份这就是那个卖天价肠粉宰我们的阿姨.继续逛河内一整天，去了教堂等地方。其实越南人没有想象中的穷，相反，还很有钱，街上虽然摩托车很多，但是奔驰宝马也不在少数，而且河内那种坑爹的物价，如果收入真的那么低的话绝对活不起。晚上坑爹的sinh tourist没有sleeping bus只有 sitting bus，所以我们很悲惨地坐了一晚硬座去顺化，各种辛苦，而且司机超爱午夜时分停车吵醒所有人吃夜宵，超爱鸣喇叭，超爱随便乱停车，根本没得睡。day3：到达顺化，其实顺化很小，只游览一个上午就够了，而且也确实没什么好看的，就一个很无聊的顺化皇城，戏称北京故宫的厕所。但是顺化有supermarket啊！！！进去一看，两根法棍都超过半米长，加在一起才5500vnd！！！也就是说不到人民币一块钱一根！！！因为是新年，简直就是菊花残满腚伤....越南人新年好像是认为黄色的花比较吉利,所以顺化满街都是菊花,皇城周围更是 堪称菊花的海洋!!!逛完顺化皇城,我们想在顺化多逛逛,所以就成就了我们越南之行的唯一一次超级深度游.半迷路的状态下走了4小时才回到新咖啡的据点. 顺化感觉很像中国的三线城市,很有生活的味道,但是因为过年,全城的店都关了,有点小扫兴. 同时看到了更多生活中的越南人,他们真的很善良.虽然他们大多不会说英语,而我的越南语仅限于"拜托了"和";谢谢你"的程度,他们都会很仔细地给我们指路(虽然只能看懂个方向,一句也听不懂)中午 回到新咖啡等车下午去会安,在周围发现一家无比便宜的果汁店,虽然已经是对我们外国人涨价了,变成了10.000一杯,也就是人民币3块3.除了酸奶和咖啡以及一些水果名字之外什么也看不懂.....(
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蔡浩英野 山 清 凉 2009年 6月26日至6月28日，我们一行六人在向导蔡胜民的协作下，完成大别山霍山龙井河1号线局部、广家河2号线全程和狼牙谷3号线大半程的徒步穿越，观瀑嬉水。 喜欢行走，是因为心向林泉。如果你的骨子里刻满了随性与浪漫，那这个世界就无所谓城市与荒原。 2009.6.26，凌晨四点，我们一行六人驱车来到大别山堆谷山村。小憩两个小时，醒来就开始摘向导老蔡家的桃子充饥。 我和老蔡商量了一下行程，酷暑难耐，此行主要去水区。略去1号线无瀑布的地区，必要走完2号线，也就是强度难度最大的广家河瀑布区，3号线主要安排腐败项目。上图红线部分就是广家河线，线路内有11道瀑布，依次为玲珑瀑、贴心瀑、老虎夹瀑、珍珠瀑、万字瀑、彩虹瀑、三道崖瀑、黄崖瀑、飞天瀑、美女献秘瀑和老牛撒尿瀑。返程途经神龙首瀑和龙王樽瀑，再插入1号线看鲤鱼跳龙门瀑，经24道弯回堆谷山村。蓝线是3号线，狼牙谷线，相对强度较低，适宜嬉水。([]
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